Blog Post
Ajaygarh Fort : Madhya Pradhesh's little secret. | 13 Dec, 2012 | Author: RARE - destinations and experiences
Raghu and Joanna have always told me about the forts and palaces of Madhya Pradesh , particularly the Bundelkhand region. Who has not heard of the legendary Kalinjar fort, the very mention of the name sends a trickle of excitement through me. And on a quick and memorable trip I was lucky to explore Bundelkhand's best kept secret - Ajaygarh and its hilltop fort.
Khajuraho has largely been a one night destination either
as a part of a cultural route or as a gateway into the central India jungles
which is why Ajaygarh has been largely ignored inspite of ASI's efforts to
restore the fort and take the trouble to maintain it with an officer in charge
.
Ajaygarh is an easy 45 km drive from Sarai at
Toria ( near Khajuraho ) through traffic-less, rural roads and would take
you just over an hour. Accompanied by an amenable and well informed staff from
Sarai, the excursion takes most part of the day that includes a picnic lunch
that is set up in the quiet groves of the fort allowing you plenty of time to
explore the fort , the temples and some beautiful rock carvings scattered
with in the vast area within the fort walls. You encounter no one and can take
hours to look around to explore things on your own, asking questions only if
needed. I just let my imagination run wild picturing in my mind what the fort
would have been like in its hey days, under a moonlit sky or with an ancient
culture living here.
The car park is in the town near the palace from where
you walk towards the steps that take you to the fort. The Fort is perched some 800
mt above the town and is an easy climb of over 500 concrete steps
shaded by trees right upto to the gates of the fort. After about 400 steps you
encounter rock carvings and sculpted figures along the fortified steps and even
as you stop and explore these you have covered the rest of the 100 steps and
find yourself on top of the hill and in the fort. Once on top the breathtaking
views of the farmland, the town of Ajaygarh, forests and reservoirs and the
sight of a few palaces set on the slope of the mountains are a sight to behold
!
Believed to have been built in the 9th century,
the fort seems to have been an important outpost. The Fort ramparts skirt the
top of the hill for over three miles and originally had five gates. Enclosing a
teak forest which clears in some parts to present three jain temples, a
few water reservoirs and a living temple that is regularly visited by people
from villages and towns around Ajaygarh. It is incredibly peaceful here save for bird
song and rustle of the dried leaves underfoot.
The temples are fascinating examples of architecture similar to the
Khajuraho temples. Though in various
stages of ruin some of the restorative work of the ASI is still eveident and it
is safe to enter the temples to look closely at the sculptures.
A group of large rocks stand facing the east are carved
with Hindu gods and goddess and images from Indian epics. Cows dominate the rock
carvings and a series of nine goddesses , figures offering prayers etc. suggest
interesting timelines.
The descent is quicker and I took the liberty to walk
around the town before heading back to the Sarai. This was the day after Diwali
and all the houses in the town wore a freshly painted look. It was also another
festival day dedicated to cows and cattle and you could see homes decorated
with colorful designs ( rangolis ) while some women were sitting around in
groups offering prayers to cows and calves. To explore do book and stay at Sarai at Toria, Nr. Khajuraho ( M.P ). http://www.saraiattoria.com/
